Ok, last time I mentioned what I did in order to improve and since then I've been thinking a lot about the way that other people train.
As far as I'm concerned there are only really a couple climbers that I know, who are really well-rounded climbers, so I'll exclude them from what I am saying.
For everyone else out there
Whenever you tweak a finger or get a dodgy elbow or shoulder, this is the least of your problems. None of you are fit enough, flexible enough, strong enough, subtle enough (weighting your feet), dynamic enough, relaxed enough, efficient enough etc. Regardless of where you think you are at, you should really face up to what you need to do to get better, if you really are serious about improving. So dont take six weeks off next time you break a finger nail, instead get your finger out and do some relevant training.
Except for one thing. Don't ask why you are always tweaking your fingers. If you have no other strengths then how could you possibly injure anything else?
Ok i'm done for real this time.
Here is some old and very bad footage (because i needed Anna to move the pad, rather than the camera) of me managing to do my very first Font 8a in the forest (Verdict at Rempart)