Friday, 27 February 2009

R.I.C.E.

For the first time in several years I found myself Sheffield bound, but with no intention of going to an indoor wall. This is one of the real advantages of no longer being on "the team".

Previously I always told myself that I would climb outside the day after team training, but would wake up the following day feeling beasted from the day before and inevitably decide to drive back up the road.

Anna trying remergence, a crag classic

It was great to finally climb on the grit again and Dylan kindly gave us the tour of some of the nicer problems at the Plantation and Burbage North. I didn't really try anything hard as my finger (although feeling a lot better) is still not ready for doing any serious work. On that note I just discovered that I had been getting the whole RICE treatment thing wrong for years, apparently it isn't Rest-Ibuprofen-Coffee-Excercise. I don't really understand how the other version would fit in with my daily routine.

Training-wise things are going pretty well with improving my strength in the deep lock range of campusing. One thing I noticed folks doing down the wall was trying to do 1-3-5-7-9 on the big rungs but ending up doing 1-3-4-5-6-7-flail-fail. When this sort of thing happens, either aim purely for dynamic 1-3-5's until they are easy or go for 1-2-3-4-5 as statically as possible, in order to get a couple of good reps out with each arm. If this starts to feel easy then try to pull a little deeper until that the single rung reach eventually becomes a choice (ie you could have reached two rungs).

I guess it all comes down to what you are training for at the end of the day, but it certainly doesn't hurt to mix it up a bit on the campus board and it definately helps if you're not just trying to burn your mates off on the night (although, this helps with recruitment too but should really come in to play later on).

Wednesday, 11 February 2009

Pure

Chuck has finally made a new bouldering film, which is being shown at the EICA on Monday March 16th at 7:30pm. Trailer Below (look it's even got Killy in it)



PURE - A Bouldering Flick by Chuck Fryberger OFFICIAL TRAILER from Chuck Fryberger on Vimeo.

Go to http://www.jonoellis.co.uk/pure/ for ticket information.

Go to http://www.chuckfryberger.com/Pure/Pure_Home_Page.html for more info on the film and how to purchase it