Tuesday, 1 February 2011

Rehab

It's been a long time since I posted, since I have had very little to write about climbing wise in the last six months.

last summer I damaged my hook-of-hamate during the BBCs, got some physio treatment and rehab exercises and have been doing these almost religiously ever since. The damage has resulted in a massively reduced grip strength in my right hand, which I'm told will never get back to normal. For the first couple of months after the comp I couldn't manage to hold on to a small campus rung even with two hands (in fact I couldn't even hang from a jug one-handed), which is a strange experience for me. This also meant that I couldn't really play on problems down the wall or fingerboard.

Thankfully after a couple of months I could play a bit, start building up to front levers and could comfortably hold a bar, to allow me to do some cross training. I did venture outside just once during this period, but it was massively depressing, you can definitely get away with a lot more indoors than you can outside. I've had a few positive breakthroughs since then though, managing to take part in the Durham Climbing Centre's birthday Party Comp, The Battle of Britain at The Depot and the BBCs last month, none of which aggravated my hand.

Best of all, last Thursday at the wall, a strange thing happened. I had a tiny shot on the campus board at A2 and nothing exploded in my hand..........Happy days.