Wednesday, 10 August 2011

Deep Lock

In a previous post I mentioned that I had been working on my posture, which has proved to be not only the key to looking "a bit of a dick" as I strut around, but has had a massive impact on my ability to lock.

I had mainly been doing exercises on the wall to address this whilst warming up, but have also taken to doing some basic campus board exercises to really try and hit the associated muscle groups hard. It is clear that my left hand side is progressing faster than my right, but it is hard to ascertain why the right hand side is lagging behind, since it could be one of so many factors, like tightness in pecs, tightness in upper traps, instability in rotator cuff, slightly weaker lower traps, poorer grip strength etc.

Attempting to get Fred Nicole style lock. Must try harder.

Wednesday, 3 August 2011

Purely Belter

We had planned to go to the Peak District at the weekend to sample some peak limestone, but the rock gods conspired against us and we were left with a Sunday day trip instead. I'm not complaining about this, since Saturday was to be sunny and hot, whereas Sunday was to be hazy and hot, so looked to be the better of the two days.

Since we had visited the Lakes limestone the previous weekend, climbing at a limestone venue was not going to be an option, so we decided to head to Shaftoe, since we both had projects to put to bed there.

When we got there it was hot and muggy, with barely a breath of air to be had (without breathing in flying ants) and the friction on the rock was as expected, exceptionally greasy. Although the rock appeared to be dry, the moisture in the air just seemed to continually condense on it, which meant repeated pointless chalking and whacking of key holds.

Anna did well managing to do "Viagra Plus sit start" for the first time, despite the crux holds being ridiculously slick, before moving on to try "Timmy Tip Toes".

I got shut down on "The Boss" which was partly due to the conditions and partly due to my head, which left me only one realistic prospect for the day which was to attempt "Purely Belter" on the Font Boulder. Despite not having tried it at all before, I had all of the beta I needed, which was that Sam believed that I would find it easy. Purely belter is a lovely (if lowball) line and I'm chuffed to have done it.

Purely Belter, Font 7c, Shaftoe from Roddy Mackenzie on Vimeo.